Knife Lake BWCA: Paddling to Dorothy Molter's Home
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Knife Lake sits near the heart of the BWCA's most traveled corridor — east of the Moose Lake chain, right against the Canadian border — and it's one of the most iconic destinations in the Boundary Waters. It's also the lake where Dorothy Molter lived alone for more than 50 years, brewing root beer from scratch and selling it to passing paddlers until her death in 1986.
This is a guide to paddling to Knife Lake: the routes to get there, what to expect on the water, and the story of the woman who made it famous.
Getting to Knife Lake
Most paddlers reach Knife Lake via the Moose Lake chain, entering through Entry Point 25 (Moose Lake). From the put-in:
- Paddle Moose Lake east to the Newfound Lake portage (short carry, about 20 rods).
- Cross Newfound Lake and take the Sucker Lake portage.
- Cross Sucker Lake and portage into Birch Lake.
- Paddle Birch Lake east and portage into Carp Lake.
- Short portage from Carp into Knife Lake.
Total distance from EP 25 to Knife Lake is roughly 12–14 miles of paddling and portaging, typically done in 4–6 hours depending on pace and conditions. Most groups camp the first night somewhere in the Moose–Newfound–Sucker chain and arrive at Knife Lake on day two.
Alternative approach via Entry Point 30 (Lake One): A longer but less crowded route that comes up through the Lake One–Two–Three–Four chain to Lake Insula, then north to Knife Lake. Adds time but avoids the peak traffic on the EP 25 corridor.
Knife Lake Itself
Knife Lake is about 6 miles long and oriented roughly east–west, sitting right on the US–Canada border. The northern shore of the lake is Canada (Quetico Provincial Park). Most campsites are on the American side, on the southern shore and the islands in the middle of the lake.
The lake is known for:
- Wind. Knife Lake is oriented to catch prevailing southwest winds, and it can blow hard with little warning. Paddlers heading west on the lake can find themselves working into a stiff headwind by afternoon. Mornings are usually calmer.
- Good fishing. Walleye, northern pike, and smallmouth bass are all well-represented.
- Rocky, exposed campsites on the islands and points — classic BWCA granite with sweeping views.
Dorothy Molter: The Root Beer Lady
Dorothy Molter moved to Knife Lake in 1934, working at the Isle of Pines Resort at the east end of the lake. When the resort closed, she stayed — and kept staying, through the establishment of the BWCA and the subsequent ban on permanent residents in the wilderness. She was granted a lifetime residency permit as the last remaining year-round resident of the BWCA.
For decades, she brewed homemade root beer on the island — reportedly up to 12,000 bottles a year — and sold it to paddlers who stopped at her cabin. On a hot August day after a long paddle, a cold bottle of Dorothy's root beer became one of the most sought-after experiences in the BWCA.
She passed away in December 1986. After her death, her two log cabins were dismantled, transported by snowmobile and dogsled across the frozen lake, and reassembled in Ely, Minnesota, where they now form the Dorothy Molter Museum. The museum is open seasonally and well worth a stop before or after your trip.
Today, her island (Isle of Pines) still sits in the middle of Knife Lake, marked on most BWCA maps. Paddlers still stop there, though there's no root beer anymore.
Camping on Knife Lake
Knife Lake has a good number of designated campsites, spread across the islands and both shores. The island sites are the most coveted — wind protection depends on direction, and the islands offer exposure to sunsets and sunrises over the open lake.
The lake can be busy in peak season (July and August weekends), given how many paddlers route through the Moose Lake corridor. Consider extending your stay past the first couple of nights to let foot traffic clear out — midweek, the lake gets much quieter.
Extending the Route
Knife Lake sits at the crossroads of several excellent extended routes:
- North into Quetico: Cross the border into Quetico Provincial Park via the portage from Knife Lake into Knife Lake (Ontario) or the Ester Lake portage. Requires a Quetico interior permit.
- East along the border chain: Continue to Ottertrack Lake, Saganaga, and the Gunflint Trail corridor — one of the best multi-week paddles in the region.
- South toward Basswood: Drop south through the Prairie Portage route into Basswood Lake for a loop back toward the BWCA interior.
Shop BWCA Map 09 (Knife Lake) →
Related Reading: Best BWCA Canoe Routes by Skill Level · Basswood Lake BWCA: Routes, Entry Points & What to Know · How to Plan Your First BWCA Trip